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  • “I still can’t see any snake.”

    Dec 9th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    “I still can’t see any snake”

    One of the students decided that she needs to introduce me to China’s cuisines as found in local restaurants. On Friday we had dumplings, a northern dish available in many flavours with many varieties of sauce. She mentioned two others, one being snake. I was bit hesitant. I’ve seen them dismembered in Yunnan and Vietnam and I decided that I was game if she came good with the offer. Also it might provide an idea of what to do with the one invited, and not by me, into my home. (Just kidding, maybe.)

     I got a call on Monday inviting me to a snake dinner. We met and headed to one of the local restaurants very popular with students. Near the entrance was a selection of noodles, followed by a large rectangular container of liquid divided into many smaller sections. Different kinds of food on kebab sticks lay in a hot broth in their own sections. There were several kinds of tofu, crab sticks as available in Australia, frankfurts, mushrooms, eggs, both quail and hen, and many shapes which had been made from unknown ingredients. Green leafy vegetables and others lay in storage behind the cooks presiding over the food. Dishes were available near the entrance. You made a choice of noodles which were then put into the broth to cook with any chosen green vegetable. You then chose whatever you wanted from the kebabs and put them on your dish. The noodles and greens were probably cooked by then so then you chose a spot at one of the tiny tables and stools. Bowls of rice and tiny bottles of soft drink were available if wanted.

    While not exactly the same, and taken in a street market,  it illustrates the concept of a large container holding smaller sections of kebabs in a broth.

    We sat down at the back. I couldn’t see anything either in my bowl or which I had rejected which I could identify as snake. When I checked with the student it became evident that a communication problem had occurred. She is the most active English speaker in her class, speaks clearly and like some students loves learning English. But, she had made a slight pronunciation mistake and due to the context of our talks I hadn’t noticed. I’d had donkey the previous week and I’ve seen all sorts of things on kebab sticks which  I cannot even name so an invitation to a snake dinner had not seemed odd or bizarre to me. What she had invited me to and what we actually had was a snack dinner, hence the kebab sticks of different foods. We had a chat and a laugh about it and ate our snacks.

    My “snake” dinner.  Plastic bowls covered with a plastic bag are common in cheap restaurants and roadside stalls.  It’s hygienic and saves on washing up.

    I was puzzled about how it all was priced. It emerged that some of the kebab sticks had a coloured end. They were one price while the uncoloured were another. When something without a kebab stick was requested a stick of appropriate colour was given too. When the meal was finished the sticks were categorized counted and payment made accordingly.

    Chinese students often talk about eating snacks when they mean they have had a meal rather than having eaten something between meals.  They have a few odd expressions which they all use. Given their popularity and the range of locations students hail from, Chinese teachers throughout China must have learnt the same expressions and taught them everywhere. I tried to eliminate one of them but it was so entrenched, the classes so large and diverse and the class objective at odds with remedial work that I learnt that I was wasting my time. I told one of the other foreign teachers and she knew of the snake/snack confusion and added two other sets she knew about including a funny story to go with one.

    China

    China, culture, Food, Xingtai

  • Battling Bureaucracy or how to spend much time achieving little or why learning Chinese would have been a good idea

    Dec 8th 2010

    By: Kerry

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    Battling Bureaucracy or how to spend much time achieving little or why learning Chinese would have been a good idea

    The Post Office

    Last Friday I organized a student for interpreting duty and we went to the local post office to post stuff home.  After an about 10 minute walk we arrived to be told the office had run out of boxes and to return on Monday.   The post office provides packing boxes in China and they must be used. 

    We returned on Monday afternoon after the student had had 6 hours of classes and was feeling rather fragile.  The post office was small and was a confusion of customers and large bags of mail sealed and awaiting collection.  Eventually the student managed to obtain a box and I placed some of my stuff in it and asked for another.  We sealed them with tape and I addressed them.  At some stage the collection truck arrived and the awaiting mail bags were slowly dragged out by the driver and one employee. 

    Finally we got one box on the scales and then the real waiting began.  Meanwhile the student started stressing about cost.   I filled in the dispatch forms in the half light and barely knew what I supposed to be writing.  There were lights over the staff side of the counter but the ones on the customer’s side were turned off and dusk was approaching so there was no light from outside to help.    Requests for a price on the box resulted in being told to wait, and wait I did.  I’d put a value on one of the boxes and requested insurance which wasn’t available so had to redo both forms.   The periodic attention of two staff members and an hour and a half of time had the transaction complete.   I had gone with piles of money and my passport, but ID was not required and the price for sea mail was quite reasonable.

    The armoured van and its helmeted, flack jacketed, gun toting attendants arrived to collect the takings while the final stage of my business was occurring.   Fortunately we didn’t interfere with each other and soon the student and I were outside braving the dark and the crazy traffic which drives or rides at you from all directions.

    Telephone Services

    I have two pre-paid telephone accounts and little way beyond termination of service of knowing their status.   My mobile is an old and simple one and won’t tell me.   I did try to get an account for the landline a long time ago.  It was protracted and while it shouldn’t have been impossible I decided my energy was better directed elsewhere. 

    A couple of nights ago when passing the campus mobile phone office with a student I decided to have her request the credit balance on my account.  We got it without any trouble.  When I have gone in alone with just my phone number written down and gestures I got nowhere.  When I went in with a written phone number and my request written in English and Chinese I got nowhere.  It was easier to pay for more credit and get the required information from the receipt.  This is a phone company specific small office which sells virtually nothing but phone credit.  Gestures and a word or two get me information all over China but doesn’t work for campus phone companies.

    About a week ago I realized that my landline wasn’t working because I couldn’t make a call and a message told me I owed money.  I went to the campus office, a different one, to discover the amount of debt and pay some money.  It too led a protracted discussion involving anyone showing an interest.  Basically the person manning the desk was only keeping the seat warm and I should leave my phone number and money and my account would be credited by someone else in the future.  Given I’m leaving soon I didn’t want to pay too much, nor so little that the problem repeated itself so I wanted specific information.   Someone dragooned two passing students to interpret.  Their level of English was poor, but in the main they did well enough that I understood that I should return about 40 minutes later and someone would be there to operate the computer and tell me.

    I returned at the appointed time to discover the two students in addition to a woman using the computer.  My debt level was ascertained and discussion occurred around the amount I should pay.  Before I knew it my account had been credited and they were hoping it all was over.  However, the issue of rent had been raised before and I wanted to know when the next rent would be charged.  I was concerned the next installment would wipe out my credit and I’d be back to square one.   Question words like “when” are often a challenge for Chinese students and so it was yesterday evening.  I’m unsure how the penny dropped but eventually it did and I got an answer.  I then needed to pay a bit more to cover upcoming rent.  I also wanted a receipt but that really was considered impossible.  The money had been credited on the computer so I was prepared to leave it there.

    An ability to speak Chinese would have saved me and others much time at the phone companies.  Adequate foreign staff support and proper billing procedures for the landline would also have done the trick.  However, it’s taken for granted that teachers automatically find their own way in the Chinese world with student assistance filling the gaps in association with learning the language from the same source.  Generalised offers of help are made but people are always busy.  I ration my requests to really important issues.    

    The idea that people have the time or ability to return for repeated visits is pervasive.  The fact that it’s inconvenient or just unpalatable doesn’t enter into it.  These are just some of the cultural differences I encounter on a daily basis.

    China

    China, culture

  • The Summer Palace

    Dec 6th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    The Summer Palace
    Last time I visited the Summer Palace I entered from the south via water. This time I entered from the north gate which is more elevated and hilly than the lakeside entrance.

    I walked down the hill until I reached the Tower of Buddhist Incense, an impressive building overlooking the lake and rebuilt around 130 years ago after being destroyed by foreign soldiers. It is a major religious site within the garden. It contains a Ming Dyansty thousand arm Buddha cast in bronze and gilded.

    The Tower of Buddhist Incense from above.

    A pagoda above it.

    One of the distant pagodas and the mythical creatures atop a temple.

    Beijing skyline and part of the garden.

    The temple complex beside the Tower of Buddhist Incense which was not open to the public.

    Industry amidst the hills to the west of Beijing.

    Bronze Pavillion built in the 1700s and located high  on the hill.

    One of the buildings lower down the hill.

    Painting near the rafters

    Rich decoration on walls and ceiling of a corridor.

    Some of the bronze statues were covered in mesh.

    Purple Heaven Hall

    The only garden in the palace resembling a western domestic garden.

    Male lion statue outside a gate guarding the building.

    The lakeside level was full of  tourists and tour groups.  Hordes of them.  The palace must have been on the afternoon itinerary.  It was hard to take a photo without them being in the way.

    This is where Cixi the Dowager Empress lived.

    This is where Dowager Empress Cixi put the emperor under house arrest in 1889.  A brick wall is visible through the doorway.

    The theatre built forDowager Empress Cixi’s enjoyment.  Some of the emperor’s vehicles are found inside including a very old car. The buildings around it are part of the theatre complex.

    Bronze dragon outside the hall where Emperor Guangxu and Dowager Empress Cixi attended to government business.

    Locking up for the day.  Some staff was in period garb including hand muffs.

    One of the small palace buildings was used to display items from the time that telephone was introduced to the palace.  This photo was one of the exhibits.  

    Dried lotus seed pods on the lake.

    A dragon pot on a snack and drink stall.

    Sunset on Kunming Lake

    Beijing, China

    architecture, art and craft, Beijing, China, Food, religion, temple

  • More Qianmen and Dashalan

    Dec 5th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    More Qianmen and Dashalan

    Last weekend when  I visited Beijing I stayed in the Qianmen area at the same hostel as the previous visit.  Staff is good, it is accessible, the price for winter accommodation is right and the surroundings are interesting.  It was a bit far from my intended destinations but I was prepared to put up with that.  Hostels in that area are a bit pricey.

    The  blood collection bus did pretty good business during the weekend but had no one outside it on Monday morning.

    A corridor area for recreation on one of the main streets in the area.  I was miserable because I’d slept poorly on Friday night.  A quilt, a doubled woollen blanket and an inadequately operating air conditioner hadn’t been enough to keep me warm the previous night.  However, each day there was at least one person lying on the narrow wooden benches, covered with bedding and trying to sleep or ignore the world.  Saturday shone with a beautiful blue sky but the wind was vicious and it really was very cold.  The rest of the weekend was warmer and I got an additional quilt and column heater plus I turned an empty water bottle into a bed warmer as I had an electric kettle.

    This is a more traditional street running parallel to the renovated tourist streets of Qianmen nad Dashalan.  It and the ones running from it were thronged with people and stalls. 

    A steaming cauldron of something.  It and a few others I’ve seen look too much like they are composed from whatever happens to be available and some of it is unpalatable to a western sensibility.  It didn’t inspire me to partake.  I had some kebabs from the chef opposite.

    This ornate frontage was sandwiched between a place advertising billiards and foot massages and a fast food restaurant.  One night there were many people standing outside the restaurant quietly singing.  There was nothing to indicate the reason.

    A display of the feathered shuttlecocks used in the popular game jianzi.  The small son of the owner saw me taking photos and immediately ran inside, gathered some hats from stock and started playing peek a boo.

    A crisp sunny Saturday morning with the national flag flying over the roast duck restaurant in Dashalan St.

    Christmas at Starbucks.  On Monday I did some shopping and needing a rest and to kill some time before my train I headed for Starbucks at Qianmen.  This and a Christmas tree in Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong were the only evidence of Christmas that I saw.  Last year I was in the Wangfujing shopping area and there were many Christmas symbols including some enormous Christmas trees.  However, that is an area of large shops and shopping centres, much more western and commercialised than the places I visited on the weekend.

    Beijing, China

    architecture, Beijing, China, culture, Food, games, shops

  • Hutongs part three, Yan Dai Xi Jie, Tobacco Pipe Lane

    Dec 5th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    Hutongs part three, Yan Dai Xi Jie, Tobacco Pipe Lane

    After farewelling the teachers and student I walked on a little further, reached the required road and crossed it. I was now close to Qianhai Lake, the southern-most of three connected lakes which used to be part of the Grand Canal and now part of a lively and fairly attractive oasis  amidst Beijing’s concrete and steel.  It took a little while to get my bearings, but a few “you are Here” type maps soon had me continuing to head in the right direction.

    This was across the road and part of what seemed to be a large temple complex.  It was too late for it to be open and I had insufficient time.  Until recently it was part of residential housing and has been renovated.  Some of the locals were using it as to enjoy a relaxing time together.

    This critter was carved into the stonework leading from Qianhai Lake to a bridge.

    Sunset over Qianhai Lake

    Some of the rental bikes available on the lakeside.

    The Vietnamese restaurant where I was to meet someone later for dinner.  As predicted by reviews it provided small serves of good food at expensive prices.  The food was delicious.   Unlike the reviews it was practically empty so a Sunday night in winter was not a money spinner for them.

    My other destination, Yan Dai Xi Jie, Tobacco Pipe Lane.  I had seen it on a documentary and being accessible thought I should visit.

    More of the lane and the back of the Vietnamese restaurant.  It has a rooftop eating area which is supposed to be good but the weather was too cold for such dining.

    This area dates back to the Ming Dynasty, from the 1300s, and appears to have more high end shops than Nan Luo Gu Xiang.

    Ducks hanging in a window ready to be roasted for Peking Duck.

    A shop selling pipes from which the street gets its name and also from the shape of the street which is said to resemble a pipe.

    When I saw the bird I realised I’d been before back in July 2009.  He was in a shop window with his own heater.  I stayed in the area and spent a couple of days roaming around and visitng a few house museums once belonging to notable people.  I left one of them before I saw it all because it was so hot and crowded with thousands of people I couldn’t stand it any more.  I couldn’t get in to see particular areas and it was impossible to take photos, with at best. parts of people intruding into them. The second house was much less popular and quite easy to get around.  The sky was always a very thick grey and most unattractive.   

    One of the side alleys.  People hang their bedding or washing in the streets when the weather is fine.  Not sure about the blue building as it is quite out of place.

    Another side alley.

    Men renovating a property in one of the side streets. So many Chinese  have the capacity to work in such appalling light situations that its amazing.

    Beijing, China

    animals, architecture, art and craft, Beijing, China, culture, Food

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