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  • Hutongs Part 2 Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong

    Dec 4th 2010

    By: Kerry

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    Hutongs Part 2 Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong

    My Chinese rogue deposited in the middle of Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong (alley).    I didn’t know which way was north or south or how far an end was until I walked far enough to work it out.  In any event it didn’t matter.

    Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong is north of the Forbidden City and east of the lakes.  It is a north south hutong of almost 800 metres built over 700 years ago.  It was renovated prior to the 2008 Olympic Games.  According to one website it was widened by the demolition of rooms  from the front of some buildings.  Parts of it probably looked like the hutongs around Qianamen in the photos  which I posted previously.    It has smaller hutongs running off it at right angles.  I read somewhere that it is the last remaining such hutong area in Beijing as the remainder are higgly piggly without straight streets.

    Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong has become a tourist mecca with the opening of restaurants, bars, handcrafts and knick nack shops.   The locals are still there but it’s impossible to know how many when they are secreted behind high walls.  The vast majority of tourists anywhere in China are domestic ones with fewer foreign tourists with increasing distances from Beijing or other major sites.

    One part of Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong

    Another

    The red colour is material and makes a colourful display.  Not sure how it would  cope with rain.

    The red cover over the door is common in my city. It is heavy and padded and serves to retain heat inside.  All of the others I’ve seen have been army green.

    Tourists in the street

    A display of double sided embroideries. ie. The technique is such that they can be viewed from either side.

    This shop assistant was wearing some of the stock & moving her arms in response to music.

     

    Unrenovated shops

    A residential entrance.  There was a sign on the wall describing some of its renovation.

    Sign on the door requesting privacy.  There was one one elewhere too.

    Peeping through an unrenovated doorway.

    Delivery duty

    Garbage services

    Entrance to a coffee shop where I rested.

    Entrance to a modern, clean toilet block.   The cubicles had doors too. 

    One of the hutongs running from Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong.

    Another

    Car being driven too fast and with excessive horn honking in a narrow street.  Driver was also talking on his phone which is normal.  Some cars have stickers to customise them.  This one also had the leopard skin sticker on the back door.

    Another renovated property in a side alley with garages.

    Never seen a green door before.  They have always been a reddy rusty colour.

    Roasted chestnuts in one of the side hutongs.

    A bicycle rickshaw  which there were numerous in the general area.

    Old motorbike and side car  parked in a side hutong outside a government building.

    Dried chickens hanging over the chess set.

    I was photographing this residential building when a young woman emerged from the building beside it.  After acertaining that I could speak English she asked if I would provide some advice on the correct answer to a worksheet they were using in the English school.  After doing that she then invited me inside where we discussed correct answers and English some more.  She would have kept me there for ages if I’d been willing.  However, it was getting late and dark and I was still to make my way to a main road, cross it and find my next loctions.  Not an easy thing when light is limited or non existent.

    There she is in part of the classroom.  There was only one kid there and a youngish man.  The kid sang me a song as thanks and she offered me a job teaching English.

    Beijing, China

    architecture, art and craft, Beijing, China, culture, Education, transportation

  • Beijing Hutongs Part One

    Dec 2nd 2010

    By: Kerry

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    Beijing Hutongs  Part One

    On Sunday I visited some of the better maintained hutongs (alleys)  in the northern area of Beijing between the Forbidden City and the lakes.

    I took the subway to the closest station and intended to walk.   However, one of the rickshaw drivers gave me an offer I didn’t feel like refusing  so I arranged to be dropped at my destination.  Of course there is always a catch or two.  The rickshaw wasn’t a rickshaw but a 3 wheeler vehicle, he took me to places where I could spend money and afterwards tried to grossly overcharge me.  Despite that he was a rather likeable rouge.

    We stopped outside  a couple of buildings which were famous for something but the language barrier got in the way.

    This was one of them.

    View through the open gate.  Additional buildings have been added since the  original design.

    Another view through the gate.  The power boards indicate the large number of households living in the compound.  Compounds differ in size although none like this seemed overly large.

    One of the hutongs with mother and child.  This cross between a wheeled skateboard and a bike is popular with littlies.

    One of a pair of carved marble pieces at the entrance to a gate.  It is new as most are very worn.  

    Gate knocker

    The entrance

    There was even room for a garage.

    Bird on a pole in the street. 

    There were two sets of pole perches for the birds set amid the remains of a potted garden.  The red object at the end is a rickshaw.

    Entrance to a porcelain shop.

    Some of the porcelain on display

    The birds were moved andwere now sunning themselves in the open area near the Bell Tower.

    The Bell Tower.  The Drum Tower is connected to it by the same paving  and is a short distance away.  They were used for marking time in ancient Beijing.

    This the back of the Drum Tower at dusk from the street behind it.

    I was taken to a courtyard home behind one of the hutong gates where residents are prepared to be disturbed for a price.  These courtyards are called shiheyuan.

    Another view of the courtyard and some of the buildings.  The round  marble object at the bottom of the picture is part of an old weight lifting bar.

    One whole building had been retained as a memorial to the past.  The elderly woman in the picture who showed me around is standing in front of family photos.  Her grandfather had been a general in the Chinese army early last century and they had lived in the courtyard.  She had bilingual signs for all items of note.  While the courtyard had not had much building added to it there were about four power boards at its entrance.

    The driver then dropped me at my intended destination.

    Beijing, China

    architecture, China, Hutongs, Scams, transportation

  • Another medical experience

    Dec 1st 2010

    By: Kerry

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    Another medical experience

    Soon after my trip to Beijing in mid November I came down with a respiratory infection.    It was enough to slow me down and cause a problem but not to be a worry as I didn’t have a fever.  I tried all of my remedies from home with minimal benefit.  After almost a week and looking at needing to take more time off work I asked one of the students to take me to a doctor.

    We went to the college clinic which was a bit of an experience.  The doctor sat at a bare desk in a fairly bare large room which had another such desk at the other end.  The room included a bare metal examination bed.  The student described the history and symptoms and my chest was checked.  While we were waiting for the thermometer to cook 2 students entered and were attended to by the same doctor in record time.

    The doctor decided I was not sick enough for a drip, which is what the students always seem to have, but then they often talk of having a fever.  I was offered an injection which included an antibiotic and an antiviral.  At that stage I was so sick of being unwell I would have agreed to almost anything and I thought it was a one off.

    We went to the cashier, produced the prescription and paid.  The next door window was the dispensary where 2 syringes and multiple vials were dispensed.  I also got a small bottle of tiny black pills and I was to take 50 three times a day.  It was then time to head for the treatment room where a nurse in fluffy slippers injected me and retained the medications for later that night.  By that time I did feel better and knew that I’d make it to class the following day.

    The little black pills

    As instructed, I returned the following morning for a review.  I was not considered well enough so it was all repeated.  The nurse was not going to be on duty that evening so I got to take my vials and syringe home.  I returned for review the following morning to see a different doctor as the original one, a kindly elderly man was off duty.   Although improved I was still far from well and the next one wanted to do a blood test and after some discussion I agreed,  paid and was conducted to another room used as a lab.  Blood analysis was done from a finger prick with immediate results and as expected was abnormal. The doctor then suggested a drip.  After some discussion and consultation with his superior he then recommended referral to a local hospital.  By this time an audience had collected waiting for their turn to see the doctor.  Being as curious as I was unwell I agreed to the referral and the long suffering student required for interpreting duty called a necessary person to make arrangements.  Fortunately the student had finished classes and had already passed the upcoming national English exam which most others are studying for.  She is preparing for a university entrance exam next year and hasn’t yet found her impetus to study so I didn’t feel too bad about taking her time.   Plus having to talk with me would improve her English.

    Syringe and vials

    The college clinic’s cashier’s window on the left and the dispensary on the right

    Lab at the clinic

    That afternoon a car with driver, a teacher and the student conducted me to a local hospital where I registered for attention.  The counter had a couple of eye glasses tied to it.  I have seen them in a bank too.  Some people don’t have reading glasses.

    Glasses attached to registration/cashier desk at the hospital

    We went upstairs where we entered room containing 2 desks back to back and multiple people one of whom was a doctor.  She checked my chest and temperature.  She prescribed several tests and we went and paid.  I then had an odd sort of X ray which as I had expected was clear.   The blood test was still abnormal and was repeated for greater analysis.  It too was done from a finger prick.  In Australia it is done from blood drawn from a vein.

    Lab at the hospital

    We returned to the doctor who offered a drip or tablets.  Given that it never seems to be one but multiple drips I declined.  Everything had progressed very smoothly and without any waiting but I had no desire to repeat it.  I paid for the prescription and we went to the dispensary.   Initially two bottles of cough medicine and a box of nose drops were produced.  I didn’t believe I needed either and declined them.   The whole prescription had to be filled or nothing.  The student then had to return to the doctor who rewrote the prescription.  It was then back to the cashier where I had my original money refunded.  I  paid extra for the new prescription as additional packets of tablets had been added.  The medications were very expensive, around A$70.  Up until then the cost including tests and medications at the college clinic had been minor. 

    The teacher told me that the doctor was a good one because she had prescribed expensive medication.  I’ve read that doctors get kickbacks from prescriptions.  I’ll never know the real answer.  I have heard that many people cannot afford medical care.  The teacher said that insurance is available.  Not everyone can afford it.  My Chinese insurance which is provided by the college has an extremely high excess as does my Australian insurance so I cannot claim.  About a month ago I was out with a student when an elderly couple begged for money for medical costs for a family member.   An elderly man was begging in the train queue on Sunday.  He had metal bars extending from one arm.  On Thursday an ex-student told me of one of the first year students who had had to give up college to take care of her father, a farmer, who had become ill and to use money saved for college for his medical care.

    I’ve been taking my tablets and by Saturday I felt that all I had was a minor cold.   The Chinese mantra is to drink more hot water.  It is the cure-all for everything.  I don’t know how many million times I’ve been given that advice, especially since I became unwell.  I don’t take hot water to class as I’ve dropped and broken two hot water/tea containers and choose not to buy a replacement.  I’m known to take a bottle of room temperature water when I leave my flat.  That is not considered suitable.  It should be hot.  I’d bet from the Chinese perspective that I’m considered not to be helping myself recover by drinking unapproved water.

    China

    China, culture, medicine

  • Winter woolies for trees

    Dec 1st 2010

    By: Kerry

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    Winter woollies for trees

     A couple of weeks ago I noticed that some of the college and city trees had received a fresh coat of whitewash. Last year I saw some of them being painted. Given its really cold with temperatures below freezing at night I wondered why.  It is common in tropical areas and from what I had heard in the past was that’s to repel borers.

    Whitewashed tree

    I consulted the internet which produced a range of answers, many to do with sunburn and borers. The answer which made sense in the circumstances was this.  The white reflects light and prevents the trunk heating up too much during the day.  This minimises diurnal heat variation, splitting and damage to bark and thus helps keep the tree healthy. It’s like lip balm for trees.  On my trip to Qingdao  I also noticed  that many lined the two lane roads and the white acted as roadside markers in the dark.

    Some of the other local trees have trunks wrapped in a coarse rope with varying degrees of attention to detail.   I found one also encased in plastic.

    Rope wrapped trees in Xingtai

    Rope and plastic

     A weekend in Beijing where the weather is even harsher produced a greater variation in winter tree and shrub support. It included wrapping with rope and some kind of synthetic fabric, emplacement of the equivalent of a plastic greenhouse and specially constructed covers some of which had capacity for opening.

    Wrapped tree at the Summer Palace in Beijing

    Wrapped tree at the Summer Palace Beijing

    Tree covered by a greenhouse at the Summer Palace

    Zhengyangmen Gate in Qianmen with covered shrubs

    Multiple wrapped trees near Qianmen 

    Wrapped tree outside a small shop in Dashalan St. Qianmen area

    Beijing, China

    Beijing, China, culture, plants, Xingtai

  • Temple of Heaven

    Nov 21st 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    Temple of Heaven

    I went to  the Temple of Heaven on Monday.  This group of structures was first constructed nearly 600 years ago and expanded and renovated subsequently.  It is the place where the emperors went to pray for good harvests.  These days it is a tourist attraction and a place for locals to relax.

    The Altar of Heaven where emperors worshipped at the winter solstice.  It consists of a marble floor atop 3 levels of marble balustrades and surrounded by a low wall.  The number and arrangement of  the marble pavers was significant.

    The Imperial Vault of Heaven where the emperors ancestral tablets used to reside.  There were two temples on either side of the circle.

    A section of the interior.  The complex underwent renovations which finished a couple of years ago.

    The echo wall  with a circumference of 193 metres around the Imperial Vault of Heaven.  A sound made at one end is reported to be heard at the other end.

    Elevated path which the emperor and his retinue walked between areas of worship.

    Seating and path through the park.  It is well covered with cypresses, many being hundreds of years old.

    The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.  It and the Vault of Heaven have rooves of blue tiles signifying their relationship with heaven.

    Interior.  No nails were used in its construction and the placement and number of columns is symbolic.

    This is known as the Long Corridor and when I walked past it about half an hour later it was thronged with people socialising.

    This was one of several middle aged groups exercising in the park.  They are playing jianzi, a game where the aim is to keep a small weighted feather object in the air using feet only.

    One of the additional walls and buildings within the park.  There were many although basically it was an extremely large park containing little but trees.

    Location of the Temple of Heaven and my route there.  Once in the park I did deviate from the main north south axis but didn’t find too much  to see apart from a few buildings, rocks and individuals exercising in out of the way corners.

    Beijing, China

    agriculture, architecture, Beijing, China, culture, park, religion

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