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  • The Return to China

    Sep 12th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    The Return to China

    As usual it was an early morning departure following insufficient sleep the previous night. We,  Son Number One on his return to the UK via China and I, arrived at the airport just before the rush and got to wait for out flight.  At Sydney we were bused from the domestic to the international terminal where all went smoothly and we soon found ourselves on a plane bound for Shanghai.

    We left before dawn.

    Leaving Sydney. Three Australian icons; the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House and Sydney harbour.

    At Shanghai we retrieved our luggage, underwent immigration formalities and walked a long, long way to the domestic terminal.  The domestic terminal was large and spacious.  We looked through some of the shops, including some selling refrigerated live crabs, sat around for a while and then went in search of our departure gate.  Suddenly we were gone from the spacious atmosphere and into a large room very full of waiting passengers.  The classy ambience had really disappeared and hopes of waiting while being comfortable, semi comatose yet alert, evaporated. Eventually, and late as is common in my experience, it was time to go.  The bus to the plane took so long it seemed like we were busing to Beijing.   At last we arrived and boarded.   Contrary to previous experience, with the same airline on the same route, and advice from check in staff we were offered a full meal very late at night. After a couple of hours we arrived in Beijing.

    Shanghai domestic terminal before we went to our departure gate.

    Some of the live crabs for sale at the airport shops.

    I will be glad if the opportunity ever arises to travel at off peak times. I’ve had my fill of full planes. I’ve never had any bad experiences; no screaming babies near my eardrums or such like, but I do like more space than my cattle class entitlement.

    At the airport we encountered a cheerful taxi driver who managed to track down the location of our hostel without any angst or tantrums. We may have paid a little more than was strictly appropriate, but after being up and on the go for over 20 hours we didn’t care. We just wanted our beds. The hostel was ready for us and soon we were in the land of nod.

    This is the street where the hostel was located.

    This is a major street in an old residential area which the hostel’s street runs off.

    The next two days were slow and quiet in keeping with energy levels. We walked around one small lake because I mistook it for another. We then walked around part of another and then sat and watched the world go by from comfortable chairs at a café/boat rental business. We also visited a lakeside memorial to a man born in the city where I work who was famous as an astronomer and hydrologer around 800 years ago. The owners of my favourite Beijing restaurant were having a night off or else the restaurant had changed hands because the service was definitely on the poor side.

    Fishermen & their poles on the small lake.

    This “You are Here” type map was the clincher as to which lake we were walking around!  I thought I had remembered the way to the lake from 13 months before but what I had remembered was the way to the subway station.

    Some of the fishermen on the larger Houhai Lake. Some had extremely long rods.

    Some swimmers in Houhai Lake.

    Some of the boats on and buildings near Houhai Lake.

    These men in their little boat collected weed from one section of the lake, which had been separated off with bamboo, and deposited it in a different area.

    The water weed was removed from the area behind the ducks and birds.

    The next day we visited a nearby market. It was the usual mix of fruit/veg/prepared foods/meat,fish,poultry/hardware/household necessities/clothing & accessories. I recognized one of the stallholders I’d bought a pair of cotton pants/trousers from a year earlier. They had done their job and I ditched them about a month before in Kunming in an effort to reduce weight for the return trip. Afterwards we headed back towards the lake but didn’t get much further than the café/boat rental place. My son hired a kayak, at what we later discovered was an inflated price, and enjoyed paddling on the lake and seeing parts we hadn’t visited on foot.

    Some of the vegetable area of the market.

    In the market.  One of my students told me that the bamboo pram used to be  a common place for babies to sleep.  I’ve seen one somewhere else.

    This building was on the way to the lake. We had walked past it the previous night when the lights were on and the doors open.  It was very basic dormitory accommodation for working men as was another nearby on the main road.

    An Aussie kayaking on Lake Houhai.  Unlike the previous day the sky was grey.

    Soon it was time to prepare for the train trip to Xingtai. We got a cab without incident, but the driver wanted to drop us opposite the railway station. I wasn’t keen on the idea as I was used to being dropped outside the front entrance. However, the last section is a grindingly slow trip for vehicles and I understood why he wanted to dispose of us quickly. I had a sherpa so I agreed.  It also meant we were far enough away to get photos of the imposing building which is the railway station.

    One of the many buildings seen on the way to the station.

    Another

    More.  I don’t know why the sky was grey over the lake but blue a couple of kilometres south.

    Beijing West Railway Station.  As is common with large cities Beijing has a number of railway stations and you  may need to  transfer between them to complete a  journey.

    My sherpa with most of our luggage.  The covered walkway we used to cross to the station is in the background.

    The station was its usual busy self but we did manage to find a seat in the waiting room without any trouble. The hostel had been unable to get soft seat tickets for us so were faced with sitting in hard seat class. The seats aren’t hard, but very cramped and carriages are usually filled with standing passengers and their luggage.

    Our train originated in Beijing and we were given plenty of time to board. It was very crowded. Fortunately we didn’t have to fight our way through any migrant workers and their enormous bags. Our carriage was also extremely crowded with around 40 people standing in the aisle and the ends would have been full too. Never-the-less, the little snacks trolley managed to fight its way through the passengers on several occasions. We had to dislodge two standing passengers from our seats before we could sit down. Apparently that train has a reputation for delays, but we were lucky that it left on time.

    Boarding the carriage.  There were numerous people still to board and find a position before the train left.

    Tiny folding stools are commonly on sale around railway stations to provide standing passengers with a seat. After our first stop I saw a young woman enter the carriage holding aloft a pink pouffe. By the second stop she had reached the middle of the carriage where we were located. The pouffe had been deflated. After sitting on the floor on a piece of paper for a while she removed a small pump from a bag and with the help of a friend inflated the pouffe and placed its pink rabbit cover on it. She then sat down and proceeded with her embroidery, something many Chinese women with time on their hands are never without. We arrived at our stop and unexpectedly got a taxi without any trouble and arrived at college without incident.

    Some of the photos belong to the Aussie kayaker.

    Australia, Beijing, China

    Australia, baby carriers, Beijing, Food, hostels, lake, Lake Houhai, markets, Shanghai, Sydney, taxis, transportation, Xingtai

  • Art and Craft in Yunnan

    Aug 22nd 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    There were  numerous examples of art and craft in Yunnan.  T he following photos show some of them.

    These embroidered and embellished hats come from the Hani minority and I bought them from an elderly woman in at a market in southern Yunnan.

    These bags came from the same market and from a cohesive group of women.  The bottom one is constructed using a modern material whereas the the other one uses hand loomed indigo dyed material.

    This is the front of a jacket one of the women was selling.

    This is the back of the jacket made from hand loomed material and embroidered in cross stitch.

    This is a store of wood ready for carving and creation.  It was part of a area of woodworkers near my hostel in Dali.

    A room containing some carved furniture in the same street.

    A silversmith operating from the front of a shop in Lijang.

    Another silversmith in Lijang.

    Woven fish baskets at a market in a village near Dali.

    Other baskets at the same market.

    Some women using/wearing their baskets in the market.

    Man making sugar designs in Dali.  These are common in other parts of China too.

    Women spinning cotton in southern Yunnan.

    Woman weaving on a  loom in the same area with example of her work visible.

    Man “beating” silk with a wire in the process of making a silk doona in a village near Dali.

    Woman in a market in southern Yunnan making something that looks like crochet but using 2 hooks.

    Woman wearing a bag from her head. The bag fabric appears the same as the previous photo.

    A similar bag in a market which has been dyed blue.

    Indigo plants in Dali. They are used for dying fabric.

    Woman in Dali tieing a design in  fabric.

    Material tied and stiched ready for dying.

    Dyed material waiting to be untied.

    Batik tablecloths ready for sale.

    The design on one I bought.

    Woman weaving a scarf using a back strap loom in Dali.

    Mosou woman in ethnic clothing weaving a scarf on a backstrap loom in Dali.

    Part of a shop selling scarves and shawls in Dali.

    Man carving pictures in a shop in Dali.  Another common craft in the area with many being much more intricate.

    Embroidery on a garment in a shop/exhibit in an old village outside Dali.  The owner of the shop had many beautiful old garments from his family.  He also had more modern fabric items which  for sale.

    Similar style of  embroidery on a piece I bought from a gallery in Kunming.

    Some of the items in an enormous gallery in Kunming.

    Hand embroidered innersoles found in Dali.  These colours are common to Yunnan.  Woman all over China hand embroider innersoles and plain ones are common in markets everywhere.

    Hand embroidery sold by Yi minority women in Kunming.

     Another piece of tiny intricate embroidery sold by the same group of women.

    Indigo dyed batik made with a wax resist to create the designs.

    Applique of animals and birds on a tablecloth seen in Dali.

    Silk embroidered fabric found in a market near Dali.

    Design on a building near Dali.  The traditional architecture is white brick decorated with delicate designs in  grey paint.

    A variety of hibiscus bark waiting to become paper in a village called Mansao in southern Yunnan.

    The bark after it has received some processing.

    The pulp has been added to a vat of water and the screens are ready to be dipped into it.

    Paper drying on screens  in the street.

    Some paper I bought from a papermaker in Dali.  This paper is more refined than that from Mansao and the blue paper has been dyed.  I don’t have a good photo of my Mansao paper.

    China, Yunnan

    architecture, art and craft, China, culture, Dali, ethnic minorities, Kumning, Lijiang, markets, Papermaking, Yunnan

  • The Trek Continued

    Aug 7th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    The Trek Continued

    My next flight from Shanghai to Sydney was all but full, not a pleasant situation for passengers who want room to stretch out and sleep.  I didn’t sleep, but everyone else within eyesight did a good imitation of it.

    Cabin staff were predominately middle aged and cheerful Aussie men, an unusual demographic in my airline experience.  Soon after takeoff we were offered a full meal which I had not expected so late at night.  My expensive, $8+, but pathetic attempt of a meal at Shanghai Airport had been unnecessary.  Where I come from, that’s an expensive meal. 

    The stars over the ocean and Australia were numerous and beautiful.  It was a real starry, starry night.  Just after crossing the Australian continent into Arnhem  land in the Northern Territory, dozens of small collections of lights were visible in an area I’d considered all but uninhabited. Normally when I have a window seat I see I good view of, and get good pictures of Australia’s landforms and landuse, but the air was not clear so I took few.

    I was on the wrong side of the plane for the sunrise but, fortunately my neighbour alerted me to it so I had a quick look through another passenger’s window and snapped this photo.

      I’ve seen and snapped it before with rich and wide orange/ochre hues.

    This is what we saw on my side of the plane.

    This is part of Sydney.

    Despite leaving late we arrived in Sydney on time, but had to cool our heels on a runway while waiting for a plane to exit our docking point.   I had some wooden and seed articles I had to show Quarantine officials, but fortunately they were considered non-threatening so my luggage escaped the visual and  beagle dog check unscathed. I checked in for my domestic flight to discover it had been cancelled in the previous 12 hours and I was then rescheduled for a later one which according to the norm was late leaving too.  According to the norm for every other vehicle I have travelled on in the last months which has overtaken or made up time, it too made up time and I arrived on schedule into the loving arms of Number 2 son, who not only carried my bags but had chocolate.  Numbers 1 and 3 were overseas.

     

    This is Lake George near Canberra which was empty of water whenever I  flew over it last.

    After 12 hours of sleep, 3 animal visitations and a further 2 hours of dozing I am ready to face Australia before I start it all again soon. I am happy to see the blue sky, fresh air, be able to clean my teeth and drink from tap water and have appropriate sanitation.  I could do a whole blog on Chinese toilets of my acquaintance.

    Australia, China

    animals, Australia, China, transportation

  • The Next Trek Begins

    Aug 5th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    The Next Trek Starts

    After two and a half days, most of which was spent having things which had gone wrong during my absence righted, I started the trek to Australia. 

    All went well with a taxi appearing as soon as I appeared at the school gate, I got a seat in the waiting room at the train station and it wasn’t hideously hot, I had a seat on the comfortable, fast but really expensive train to Beijing. The middle-aged Chinese man I was sitting beside even put my backpack on the overhead luggage rack.  That was a first.    

    The rot started when I arrived in Beijing.  The station was really busy and the taxi queue which always looks daunting, but in reality moves quickly so normally I’m in and out within 20 minutes, looked horrendous.  I guessed it as a 40 minute wait which in fact lasted 65 minutes. The queue was like a funnel with the narrow part actually turned back on the end of the queue so a really wide section, in excess of 6 people wide, has to narrow to accommodate about 2 people width within sturdy metal rails. It was hot, but not sweat inducing, and people were queue jumping.  Eventually a brawl broke out.  I was too short and too far away to see the whole episode.  However, I did see a Chinese woman bashing just about anyone with a sturdy rolled umbrella and using great vigor.  Eventually some of the men in the vicinity managed to settle it down and a middle aged couple left the queue.  In a country where guards, security personnel and police are everywhere not one was to be seen at any stage.  A few people, including one close to me did get pushed over by the fracas, but soon everything continued as usual with people continuing to queue jump and use might to push their way through.  I had one behind me who was digging me in the back with the metal on his bucket of coat hangers and then had the hide to indicate my backpack was in the way of a woman behind me.  If it was in the way it was because she was too close to me.   There 3 other pink faces in the crowd, British businessmen, who were aloof, but one did make sure I negotiated the turn in the funnel without the other guy getting in my way.

    After I got to the hostel and unwound I headed out to check out the location of the shuttle bus departure point, get some money and buy some wool for a friend. The ATM and bank were closed for renovations so I headed off for the wool. After not locating the correct subway exit and exiting at one which left me completely confused the assistance of 3 passersby soon had me back in familiar territory and in possession of some more camel wool.  I went searching for an ATM I felt comfortable using and didn’t find it.  I did find the Peninsula Hotel, a very swanky affair, and felt sure that it would have a Bank of China ATM.  I wandered in past its uniformed attendants, marble, flowing waterfalls, musical recitals and eventually found the ATM.  I cleared out my account and probably still didn’t have enough to buy a pair of socks in their high end shops.

    I saw a Novotel Hotel and thinking it was the back end of the one I’d been told was near the first ATM I’d visited thought I would walk back to the hostel. I soon found myself in unfamiliar territory again, very expensive shopping area, and on asking got told to take a bus.  So I lined up and then was told to catch the bus on the other side of the street. I discovered there were 2 Novotels in the vicinity and my bus trip showed me another part of Beijing.  I was not in a photo taking mood so there are none.

    Today I left to catch the shuttle bus to the airport to discover it had moved departure point from where I found it yesterday. Not far, but enough to be annoying and I was glad I had not thrown out the piece of paper containing the Chinese words for it. Eventually I reached the airport, we boarded the plane to Shanghai late and sat on the tarmac for about 40 minutes. When that happened with Etihad we were diverted with sandwiches and drink; we got nothing today and no food in air during a 2 hour plus trip.  The highlight of the day is that my bag weighs half a kilo under the magic weight so I have had no weight problems and I didn’t have to jettison anything when repacking this morning.

    My Qantas flight to Sydney is about to board so I will see if I can post this before I go.

    Beijing, China

    Beijing, China, culture, transportation

  • The Return

    Aug 4th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    Map of China showing departure in Kunming on July 30th with arrival in Xingtai 42 hours later. The train did not stop at my city so I had to double back after cooling my heels in Shijiazhuang for a couple of hours.  I even managed to get a soft seat ticket without any dramas which was most unusual as seated tickets of any type between the two cities was previously unheard of and never experienced. The news reported high water levels, floods and imminent floods in some of trhe cities I travelled through but as we went through them when I was asleep I have no idea of the severity. We were not delayed in any way.

    This was part of the scene while I waited outside the station .  It was extrememly hot but fortunalely I got a spot on a seat under a tree like that in the picture where there was a pleaant breeze.  Chinese waiting rooms are uncommonly hot.   The beggers were out in force.  T hey were common in Kunming too.  China is trying, but still lacks many community and social welfare services found in other countries in addition to adequate  financial support for those normally covered in western countries.

    I’m not sure of the number of kilometers I travelled as google is a bit reluctant to tell me and I don’t have time to delve properly.  It would be in the vicinity of 8-9,000km.  I do have other photos of the return trip but the internet connection is slow and I need to move on.

    China, Yunnan

    China, transportation, Yunnan holiday

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