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  • Planes, Trains and Automobiles

    Jul 8th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    Planes, Trains and Automobiles

    Map of China showing my route so far.  Train from Xingtai in Hebei  to Kunming in Yunnan (35 hours), bus to Jinhong (9 hours) and plane to Lijang (50 minutes + 60 minutes delay.)

    Map of Yunnan showing major cities I have visited  to date, Kunming, Jinghong and Lijiang.

    Map of the county of Xishuangbanna, in Yunnan province showing most of the  cities and towns I visited.

    I have travelled in a variety of buses, but haven’t had to share with chooks or ducks yet.  Just about every car driver and  interurban bus driver  I have been with felt obliged to overtake the vehicle in front. Most bus seats were quite comfortable.  I had a day of bike riding in Jinghong and have foregone opportunities to ride a horse, not worthwhile,  or sit on a dromedary.  Shanks pony has had a real workout.

    China, Uncategorized

    bus, China, maps, transportation

  • To Market to Market

    Jul 8th 2010

    By: Kerry

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    To Market to Market …

    Part 1

    I didn’t find the fat pigs for sale, but I did eventually see one small one being carried off in a cane basket.  Unfortunately it happened too fast for me to record it.

    I visited about half a dozen markets in Jinghong and the surrounding villages.  All were full of colour and life not found in Australian markets.  The fact that people in ethnic dress were common and laws around food handling are different created some of the colour.  Also there’s nothing like enormous piles of red chilis and the colourful dried foods on display to give shopping a bit of vibrancy.

    MARKETS IN JINGHONG

     

    This is the entrance to one of the markets in Jinghong.  Sellers have a single garage space with a roller door. The baskets on the women’s backs are very common.  There are now some made from snthetic materials, but 95% I’ve seen are of  the bamboo variety.

    The main market area consisits of a large roofed area having rows of short benches for produce.  This one is selling meat.

    Vendor and colourful vegies. 

    Some of the examples of tofu on sale.  The tofu in the right hand corner looked rather “furry.”  Not sure if it was a feature of the product or it was well past its “Best by Date.”

    Whatever is in the metal bowl is being distilled in the vat behind.  This was in one of the small lock up stores under the big open spaced market.

    This is another small lock up shop under the roofline.  It sold containers, household and farm requirements.

    This critter was poking out from a bag attached to a motor bike and was waiting for its new owner to return.

    Electric tricycle with its tray neatly arranged with bones.

    Fast food.  Need to wake the vendor first.  Some of the small internal lock up shops are in the background.

    These were lucky enough to be sold from the top of a cane basket instead of from inside a metal cage.  Chooks in China have much more attractive colouring than I remember from Australian chooks.

    JADE STREET MARKETS

    A couple of the small shops in Jade St.  Basically it’s a street of small shops selling  jade & tourist nick nacks.  Many of the jade and jewellery sellers are Burmese.

    GALANBA MARKET

    This market is very large with a wide range of stalls inside it.  It is Galanba, a small town south of Jinghong.

    MENGHUN MARKETS

    This was taken at Menghun, about 11/2 hours by mini bus west from Jinghong.  It has a market each Sunday and a few ethnic  women visit to sell items of clothing.   I was mobbed as soon as I appeared as the only other couple of foreigners I saw were leaving as I arrived & they didn’t look the kind to buy textiles.   I did have to help the women out a bit.  Enough to give me a luggage problem.

    Another one in colourful skirt and bag.

    Looks like 3 generations and a different ethnic group from the previous 2 people.

    More women and from yet different ethnic group.

    These women caught the same bus as me.  While we were waitint for it to leave one went & bought 2 ice creams for the kids & offered one to me.  They got off at a very pretty area somewhere along the road.

    Young monk riding a motor bike at Menghun Markets.   Saw lots of young monks riding motor bikes and a couple smoking.  That part of China has many buddist temples and boys enter a monastry at a young age.

    Some of the fast food available in the market.

    basket of ducklings

    bags of lentils, chilis etc

    Women fron different ethnic groups selling their produce.

    China, Uncategorized, Work

    animals, art and craft, China, culture, ethnic minorities, Food, markets

  • A Wobble or Two and a Good Day for Water Vendors

    Jul 4th 2010

    By: Kerry

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    A Wobble or Two and a Good Day for Water Vendors

     Yesterday I decided to explore some of the parks which are located down the other end of town. After walking the streets for two days one of my feet was objecting so after spying some bikes under the hostel stairs I decided to brave the traffic and ride. The traffic is much less here although few streets have the usual secondary roads for smaller vehicles. Many of the roads in Kunming had dispensed with them too. A sign of the times; need for more car road space.

    While I was waiting for the bike seat to be lowered I noticed the weather noticeboard. Not an auspicious omen.

    Nice leafy subsidisry road

    Read  the noticeboard

     One of new the guests stopped to chat and said that she had returned from being out because it was too hot.

    Anyway I set off with a bit of a wobble and 1200 mls of water. None of the streets to the gardens had the secondary streets so I rode on the footpath and wobbled every time I had to slow down for the numerous obstructions. Not sure if I should have been there, but it was the safest place for me. I wasn’t the only one there, but most bikes were on the roads. There are very few bikes here. Mostly, its cars and big scooters. Kunming was the same although it did have a few electric bikes of the sort which are the mainstay of my city.

    The first garden I reached was the medicinal one. It was nice and green, well laid out and I was able to ride around.

    Signs and captions were in English and Chinese. There were hardly any visitors although the parking lot contained many buses. It really was rather hot and I was glad I wasn’t walking.

    There were no market stalls within the garden so I had to ration the water. I would have spent more time and paid more attention if I hadn’t been concerned about dehydrating. Just as I was near the entrance and deciding whether I could last a bit longer I saw an elderly Chinese man dressed only in baggy shorts walking briskly up and down an area of shaded pavement while moving his arms above his head rhythmically. Guess it was his daily or afternoon exercise. Staff live onsite and occasional signs pointed to “uptown staff.”

     I exited the park into the parking lot.

    My trusty stead in the orchid garden

     There I found some tourist stalls, a hole in the wall refreshment shop and a mini tea processing plant.

    The tea processing plant was set up for tourists and was complemented by vast numbers of spaces for tea tasting and a shop for purchasing tea and decorative items made from tea.

    Frangapani from an enormous tree

    Part of the tea processing plant. 

    Some of the artistic expressions available in tea  

    The next garden was an extremely large one of tropical plants. 

     I wasn’t allowed to take the bike. In retrospect I should have paid extra and taken one of the electric carts used by the Chinese. I and a Chinese bloke who was not part of a tour group were the only ones walking.

    Some of the trees appeared very old and various grasses and plants had been used as lawn in different areas.

    The real lawn was so green and smooth that some of  it looked like carpet. And there were no smiling grass signs. In northern China grass usually has a sign on it effectively stating “keep off the grass.” However, it is often couched in terms of “the grass smiles for you not walking on it.”

     When I asked someone why it was written that way I was told that the way I’m familiar with is too direct. However, Chinese can be very direct in other areas. 

     I was asked my aged in a hotel by one of the staff hanging around while I waited for her colleague to book me in. She was taking a long time to do little. I was feeling crabby due to the lack of action  and because it was past midnight after a long dayso I refused, politely. 

      A few days before, while I was watching monkeys in the zoo a little kid ran up and without any preamble asked me my age. The night prior to that I had previewed a section of The King and I where the King of Siam asked Deborah Kerr her age. That really was the time when a lady didn’t reveal her age so she made up a preposterous number. I did the same.

    So be aware what influences you because I would never have thought of it before.   The kid ran off and the student who was with me but had wandered off  heard the kid and told him it was not polite to ask foreigners their age. I’m often asked my age and occasionally my income.

    This was taken 75 minutes after the other and the flower opened significantly more

    So I don’t understand the smiling grass signs. Presumably grass grows fast enough in the south that it can cope with some foot traffic and doesn’t need the same protection as northern grass.

     When it was closing time at the garden I headed off for a massage. I locked the bike and after reaching the top of the stairs the receptionist told me to bring it upstairs. So I had to lug it up half a storey. She said it was OK to leave it at the halfway point where she could see it.

     After the massage I headed down the street in the wrong direction and found myself in the street which is closed off for a night market.

     I’d never been there that late enough before so I got a quick look as I pushed the bike through. It was near a good restaurant and as I was starving I decided to eat there and deal with the issue of returning in the dark later. There is a dearth of restaurants or food stalls near the hostel so food at night has been less than ideal. One night on my return I thought I had found food, but as it was being made I realised it was a dessert item. I thought some already cooked pastie type foods would be suitable so I bought one too. However, when I bit into it realised I had two dessert items and no real food. Fortunately I’d had a very large and healthy lunch.

    China, Uncategorized, Work

    culture, Jinghong, markets, medicine, park, plants

  • A Taxi or Two

    Jun 30th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    A Taxi or Two

    Monday started early in the City of Eternal Spring (Kunming) with a taxi driver who didn’t know the way to the new South Bus Station and ended with in Thailand with one who didn’t know he’d reached my destination.  I wasn’t really in Thailand, the closest borders are with Burma and Laos, but the profusion of Thai architecture, script and elephant motifs means I could be forgiven for imagining I’d left China.  The dominant population is related to the thai people.

    The morning’s taxi driver started off well, but soon had second thoughts about the location written on the paper.    Eventually after he’d driven on yet again and I’d dug the map from the bottom of my bag, because I wasn’t going to need it for a while, and  showed him the destination off the map did he decide he was happy and continued in a more purposeful manner.  He was quiet and patient and lasted until the destination before he lit up a cigarette.

    The evening’s driver again read the address and decided he knew the location so off we went.   We reached a busy street and he stopped.  He didn’t know where to take me.  The location didn’t coincide with the description on the hostel website so I didn’t look for signs.  He phoned the hostel and told me to wait.  I thought he was waiting for traffic to slow so he could do a U turn when a strange man appeared and told me to go with him.  After I established that the strange man really was from the hostel about 50 metres away I paid the driver and left.  It eventuated that he had taken me to the correct address as the hostel was in a laneway and he had not noticed the signage.

    I’ve had drivers have tantrums because they have been forced by a taxi controller to take me places they didn’t know.  One man only stopped complaining in order to start turning a receipt into origami, while driving.  After I became more familiar with Beijing I realised that the location I needed that time was a very well known and easily accessed area.

    Another driver was most upset to have his card game interrupted that he refused to drive and walked away from the cab.   I’ve had driver’s refuse to take me when I’ve shown them the location on a map written in Chinese when the distance was not great.  Yet I had one delightful woman happy to take me somewhere and back, based only on sign language and then have a laugh with me when we realised I hadn’t given her the most direct route for the forward journey.

    The photos relate to Monday’s bus trip.

    These are some of the buses at the Kunming South Bus station  with the station building at the rear.

    Lunch which was included in the ticket price. This was provided at a restaurant at one of the stops. The tofu & the zucchini are common.  The college canteen often cooks them.

    The bus stopped after several hours driving.  It was   in the middle of nowhere similar to the rest stops on Australian roads.  After the toilets at a previous stop in a town I was glad I didn’t need to visit this one.

    We stopped on the outskirts of a city  and the bus attendant, in national dress, attended to some business.

    On another occasion we were stopped and a policeman entered and scanned everyone’s identity cards.  He was uninterested in a foreign passport.

    China, Uncategorized, Work

    bus, China, taxis, transportation

  • The “domestic” or chivalry isn’t dead and the shake down

    Jun 26th 2010

    By: Kerry

    No comments

    The “domestic” or chivalry isn’t dead and the shake down

    Yesterday morning I caught the bus on my way to a temple.  The lunch time rush was starting so I got to stand just inside the front doors.  I soon heard and saw a very heated discussion between an elderly man who was standing at the front and a middle aged or older  woman who was sitting on one of the front seats.  Soon several other passengers were involved on the side of the woman.  I thought it was a domestic played out in public  until I got to move in a bit further and realised that there was an empty seat and the man was trying to push another middle-aged plus woman onto it while the passengers wanted him to have it as he was older.  In the end she sat down, but not before a lot of noise and passenger participation.

    I took a couple of buses  and saw people quickly stand and surrender seats to  elderly persons.  I’ve seen it happen in my city, but not readily and definitely not if there’s a spare seat down the back.  I’ve never been offered a seat except once or twice in other cities. 

    My guide book to Prague stated that older people were offered seats on public transport.  I was happy to be the recipient of such courtsey during my visit a couple of years ago.   I wasn’t there long enough to learn much, but theirs is an entirely different culture too.   Going to the opera was not a bit expensive deal and its the only place I’ve seen lots of people walking around holding hard cover books covered with plastic and they wern’t library books.

    Manners have a whole other meaning here.  Last year one of my students who was helping me with language eventually suggested that we knew each other well enough that I didn’t need to keep thanking her.  Later I read somewhere that it is uncommon to thank a person for every day matters in Chinese culture.  No wonder that people think I’m odd as I do tend to thank people and apologise when I bump into them especially on crowded trains, buses etc.  One of my more recent students complained of the constant need to say “pardon.”  Others tend to use the colloquial “what?”  When I visited London last year I read a fascinating and very readable book on the social anthropology of British customs and manners.  All very different from Chinese customs.

    The Shakedown

    After I arrived at the bus terminus I needed to take a minibus to the temple.  However, the  bus terminus was unlike any I’ve encountered before and the minibuses weren’t minibuses.  It consisted of a big yard containing many small and none too flash-looking passenger vans.  There are good looking public minibuses in Kunming because I’ve seen them but they weren’t in that yard.  A woman came over, asked me where I wanted to go, I showed her my piece of paper containing the magic words in the right language and she proceeded to tell me the price.  When I didn’t understand she picked the requisite notes, 40 yuan, from her bag of money.  I couldn’t remember the estimate I’d been quoted at the hostel, but knew it was nothing like that.  I refused to pay or bargain and tried to call the hostel. I couldn’t get through and realised my phone battery was almost dead so I decided I was better off recharging my phone and moving to plan B.  While I was fiddling with the phone a man offered a 30 yuan trip and another begged for money.  While walking to the bus stop to return to the hostel I remembered the estimate I’d been given was 8 yuan.

    After recharging my phone and doing some washing I went to a local temple which required a long walk to the bus stop and another cheap local bus ride. These two photos are of Yuantong Temple.  Part of it is 1200 years old.  It has a population of Buddist nuns and monks and the atmosphere and upkeep were quite different from that I’ve experienced in temples in northern China most of which don’t have any religious living in them. 

     I then visited a famous park in Kunming, Green Lake Park and walked back to the hostel via the cubby hole medical service. In the park were numerous dogs in addition to photographers with seriously long lenses trained on the first of the lotus flowers.  So, an interesting day.

    My other recent experience of a shakedown happened on Wednesday.  I went to the Ethnic Nationalities Village.  It is an enormous place, worth visiting and one day is insufficient.  Staff is young and wear ethnic costume.   I was sitting watching a show and fiddling with both cameras.  An elderly woman in an ethnic costume arrived late and sat beside me.  She was friendly and alerted me to developments on stage when I had my head on the camera deleting old pics.  However, I didn’t need her prompting.  She had no fear about feeling the degree of meat on my forearm and noting that I had 2 cameras.  Just as well it wasn’t the time and location for cannibals or I’d have been worried.   She was just sizing me up as a likely mark for the inevitable request for money when the show ended.  However, I could have been skinny without cameras and she still would have done it I’m quite sure.  Beggars are not uncommon in China.  There is a small camp of homeless men near the hostel.

    Moso people singing performance

    One of the concession vendors at the village was over greedy too.  Her cost for a bottle of water was way over the top so I refused and got one later for a much more reasonable price.  I was resting in a nice little arbour near her van just before I left.  I noticed that a couple stopped and moved on without buying anything so maybe  she wasn’t just discriminating against pink people. The village is enormous and it was a quiet day and she didn’t do much business in the times I was around to observe.

    Lotus Flower in green Park close to Yuantong Temple

    Two of performers in Green Lake Park.  Most were older people singing Chinese songs.  All had PA systems.

    China, Kunming, Uncategorized

    bus, China, culture, dogs, ethnic minorities, Kumning, lake, manners, park, performance, religion, temple

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